Q. We installed a pressure-treated deck about 15 years ago and have tried several finishes, including water repellent, stain and finally, paint. The paint didn't adhere well and has become almost black with mold. Can we remove the old paint by pressure washing, down to bare wood, and paint again? - F. Emmet
A. I am not a fan of painted decks. Paint on a deck often leads to extra maintenance problems, especially peeling and chipping.
Most experts recommend stain as the best finish for pressure- treated decks. Semitransparent stains allow the wood grain to show through. Solid-color stains give more color and often last longer than semitransparents before recoating is needed. Cabot, Flood's and Olympic stains are among those often rated highly by experts.
Considering the different coatings you have applied and the problems you have, I doubt that pressure washing alone will put the deck in condition to be refinished. Pressure washing should remove much of the loose paint and mold, but some stripping and scraping will probably also be needed. Avoid sanding if possible because of the toxic nature of dust from pressure-treated wood.
When you are down to bare wood, clean the deck with Wolman's DeckBrite or a similar cleaner and allow it to dry thoroughly before applying any new finish.
If you decide to paint again, be sure and use a special porch- and-deck paint and add a mildewcide to help prevent formation of mold. If mold (usually dark stains) does appear on any finish you apply, use a deck cleaner to restore a fresh appearance. Read the directions to make sure the cleaner is suitable for the finish you applied. Stick to the same finish when refinishing and always clean the deck before applying a fresh coat of finish.
Q. Our kitchen counter has a laminate surface on top of particleboard, with solid wood edges that match the counters. Water seeped under the edge near the sink, causing the particleboard to swell up. How can I seal the counter to prevent more damage and can the swollen particleboard be restored to its original shape? - M. Higgins
A. If the wood edge can be temporarily removed without damaging it, you might be able to trim the swollen particleboard flat with a very sharp utility knife, then work some glue under the laminate and clamp it down to the particleboard until the glue dries.
As for sealing, I would apply a thin bead of mildew-resistant acrylic-latex caulk to the joint of the counter and the wood edge. Wipe off any excess caulk with a damp rag. The caulk line should be barely noticeable and will keep water from seeping into the joint. Examine the caulked joint regularly and add new caulk to any gaps that appear.
The same technique is sometimes used to renovate cracked and deteriorated plaster ceilings.
Q. How do I remove old, nonslip decals from a fiberglass bathtub? - C. Grossman
A. Applying moderate heat with a heat gun or gun-type hair dryer will often soften the adhesive enough to allow the decals to be scraped or pulled off. Use a plastic auto-windshield scraper and work carefully to avoid scratching the tub.
Some residue will probably remain in the tub. To remove it, rub with a rag moistened with Goo Gone, a versatile solvent sold at some supermarkets and home centers. WD-40, a lubricant sold at most home centers and auto-parts stores, will also remove adhesive residue; spray some on a clean rag and rub.
Popcorn solution
Reader Shirley Annette found a happy solution when she moved into a 1970s house with several popcorn ceilings. Instead of removing the popcorn or attempting to paint it - the usual messy and sometimes dangerous approaches - she had the ceilings covered with gypsum wallboard, covering up the dirty popcorn and forming a fresh new surface for painting. "We were pretty sure there would be asbestos to deal with if we removed [the popcorn]," she said. Installing the wallboard "took a little time and was messy, but not nearly so bad" as removal, she added.
Originally published by McClatchy Newspapers.
(c) 2008 Sunday Gazette - Mail; Charleston, W.V.. Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning. All rights Reserved.
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